Biryani, the storied Indian dish of fragrant layered rice, spices, and (usually) meat, if made well, is one of my favorite things. A good biryani is richly aromatic; indeed, a magnificently flowery aroma is an essential part of the dish. Biryanis are made throughout India, and preparation differs depending on the region. Some biryanis are made with coconut, some with ghee, yogurt, or buttermilk; spices may include cardamom, coriander, cinnamon, fennel, or mace, among many others. The intoxicating aroma usually comes from saffron, sometimes with a touch of rosewater or kewra (pandan syrup). The word biryani is said to be of Persian origin, a corruption of the word beriyan, which in Farsi means to fry before cooking, or birinj, which means rice. Biryanis are thought to have been brought to India by the Mughals in the 16th century, although some culinary historians believe the dish pre-dated the empire. Regardless of origin, the dish has proliferated—in Hyderabad alone, there are said to be over forty distinct versions.
My path to this recipe was precipitated by the much-welcomed reappearance of curry leaves in my life. Like most Americans, I never had curry leaves in the United States. It’s not our fault. Thank those humorless trolls, the FDA, who banned the import of curry leaves when a pest was found on a shipment. In London, I encountered them for the first time them fresh, sold by the bunch at a famous Notting Hill spice shop. Thence began a love affair. (Like a dog offered a tasty piece of meat, I find it virtually impossible to resist unfamiliar spices. My spice cabinet is jammed higgledy-piggledy with jars, bags, and tins. I buy spices when I travel like some women buy pocketbooks. When I moved house from London to Seattle, I brought my hard-won spice collection with me (are you listening, customs fascists?), save for those that could not masquerade as sealed containers. These remnants, which included some truly superlative, hard-to-find Georgian spice blends, I gave to my beloved friends Jess and Will, WHO HAD BETTER APPRECIATE THEM.)
But I digress. Curry leaves (not to be confused with curry, an English derivative of the word kari, meaning, simply, sauce) predominate in South Indian cooking. They have a slightly acrid aroma, not unlike asafetida, and a nutty, burnt cork flavor. They add dimension to all manner of dishes, and are wonderfully versatile, working equally well with fish as with vegetables, with meats as with dal. Tougher than other fresh herbs, they still are tender enough to be eaten. Curry leaves, as I learned the hard way, are impossible to find in Seattle. I searched for them in at least a dozen places. Most vendors hadn’t heard of them. At Uwajimaya, the excellent Japanese supermarket chain, I learned from a knowledgeable produce buyer that although the ban has been lifted, shipments frequently are still ‘detained’ at the whim of customs agents. I ultimately found them online here. They arrived fresh and fragrant, and since receiving them I think I’ve used them every day.
One of the most memorable biryanis I’ve eaten featured curry leaves, and so biryani was one of the dishes I was determined to make with my new stash. I cannot totally vouchsafe authenticity; this biryani is pretty close to a Lucknowi biryani, and I’m not 100% sure that curry leaves would be used in a biryani so far north, although curry leaves from Lucknow are reputed to be excellent. I researched a number of recipes before making this one; particular thanks go to Kavita for her excellent explanation of technique, and Pushpesh Pant’s India cookbook. My recipe uses shallots because I prefer them to onions; in India, the two ingredients often are used interchangeably. The dish involves a number of steps and many different spices, but beyond that it is not overly difficult to make. Traditionally, the pot in which a biryani is cooked, or dum, is sealed with dough to ensure that absolutely no steam escapes while the dish finishes. You can seal the pot with foil, however. If you want to try the dough method, a recipe and instructions can be found here.
You will need:
A large casserole dish with a tight-fitting lid
A mortar and pestle or spice grinder
2 cups (420 g) basmati rice
1.5 pounds (approx 2/3 kilo) boneless chicken thighs, cut into rough bite-sized chunks
1 cup (240 g) yogurt
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 and 1/4 teaspoon salt plus one tablespoon salt, divided
6 tablespoons ghee, divided
300 grams (about 2/3 pound) shallots, or 7-8 medium red shallots, sliced thinly into rounds and then roughly chopped
25-30 fresh curry leaves
2-3 black cardamom pods
6-7 green cardamom pods
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon nigella seeds
2-3 whole cloves
2 cinnamon sticks
5 large cloves (about ½ medium head) garlic, finely grated, or about four tablepoons
2 tablespoon grated fresh ginger
2-3 small green chillies (Thai chillies are fine) finely chopped
Four tablespoons fresh mint leaves, roughly chopped (divided)
Six tablespoons fresh coriander (cilantro) roughly chopped (divided)
½ teaspoon saffron, crumbled, and bloomed in a small bowl with 4 tablespoons of boiling water
A few drops rosewater and/or kewra (optional)
2-3 tablespoons slivered toasted almonds
- First stage: Initial preparation.
Combine the yogurt, turmeric powder, and 1 and ¼ teaspoon salt in a bowl with the cut-up chicken, and toss to combine. Set aside to marinate. Wash the rice well until the water is no longer cloudy, then put the rice in a bowl, cover with water, and leave to soak for at least 20-30 minutes.
Heat four tablespoons of the ghee in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium-high heat, then fry the shallots until they are golden brown, stirring occasionally to prevent them from burning. (This will take about 20-30 minutes.) Remove from the pan with a slotted spoon and set aside. Fry the curry leaves in the same pan until crispy. Remove to a plate or dish and set aside, reserving the leftover flavored ghee.
In a dry saucepan over medium heat, toast the two kinds of cardamom, fennel seeds, and nigella seeds until they are aromatic and the cardamom has begun to color. Remove from the pan. It should be easy to remove the cardamom seeds from the pods; if not smash the cardamom lightly with the flat end of a knife to crack the pods, remove, and reserve. Combine the cardamom seeds with the toasted fennel and nigella seeds and pound to a powder in a mortar and pestle. Wrap the reserved cardamom pods together in cheesecloth with the cinnamon sticks and cloves, and tie with twine to secure.
- Second stage: Par-cooking the ingredients.
Making sure that you have removed all crispy shallot remnants (one way to do this is to pour the contents of the pan through a strainer), add two tablespoons of ghee to the pan with the reserved ghee and heat over medium-high heat until melted. Stir in the toasted ground spices, toss briefly to temper, then add the chillies and grated garlic and ginger. Stir rapidly with a wooden spoon until the mixture has begun to soften and turn pale golden (3-5 minutes). Stir in the chicken together with the yogurt marinade, and cook uncovered over medium-high heat, stirring occasionally, until the liquid has reduced to a thick sauce and the fat has begun to separate, about 40 minutes. When the sauce has reduced and thickened, remove the chicken from the heat, and stir in half of the chopped mint and coriander.
While the chicken is cooking, heat six cups of water in a large pot until rapidly boiling. Add one tablespoon of salt, half of the chopped mint and coriander, your cheesecloth spice package, and the rice, and boil briskly over medium-high heat for 6-7 minutes, or until the rice is par-cooked. It should be somewhat soft but still have some bite to it, like al dente pasta. Remove from heat, drain excess water, and rinse with a little cold water to stop the cooking. Remove and discard the spice package.
- Third stage: Assembly.
Preheat your oven to 350 degrees Fahrenheit (180 degrees Celsius). Grease the bottom and sides of your casserole dish with a little ghee or vegetable oil.
Spoon a thin layer of rice (about ½ inch) over the bottom, and sprinkle with a few fried shallots. Cover with one third of the chicken mixture, distributing evenly over the bottom.
Spoon over this one third of the remaining rice, sprinkle with one third of the fried shallots, one third of the fried curry leaves, and drizzle with one third of the saffron mixture. If using rosewater or kewra, add a few drops to the saffron before assembly. Repeat this layering process—one third chicken, one third rice, one third shallots, curry leaves, and saffron—until you’ve used all the ingredients. Sprinkle the slivered toasted almonds over the top of the final layer.
Seal tightly with aluminum foil, then cover. Or, if using dough, seal the edges after you’ve covered the pot.
Cook for 35 minutes in the oven. Serve hot.
Susan! This looks and sounds incredible. I love your description of the dish: its origins, its ingredients, your technique. Please keep blogging!
Aw thanks Suzie! I know it’s been a couple of months. It’s been a busy time but I hope to blog more frequently again.
That looks fantastic – especially with the almonds. Biryani is an absolute favourite of mine. I haven’t made it for ages though. I should revisit!
You should! It’s such a treat, especially in winter.
Fabulous. Thanks for reminding me of this dish – I used to make it often with leftovers – the kids loved it. And thanks for explaining why I can’t find fresh curry leaves! I so wish I could taste one and cook with them!!!
Where are you located Mimi? I was able to order them from India Shakti (link in the main post, above). I’d almost forgotten how much I love them! 🙂
I cannot wait to make this — it looks absolutely delicious! Better go online and order those curry leaves…
Yes, you’d better! I look forward to hearing your report. You know I always love your feedback.
Just made it for dinner. Absolutely outstanding! A hit!
And now I feel so guilty because, every year, I put a curry plant in my herb garden. And, every year, I forget to do anything with it (despite all the good leaves). Looks delicious! And bravo to you for finding something worthwhile in the Pant cookbook. Don’t get me started on my experience with the biryani recipe I tried from it…
The Pant cookbook drives me CRAZY. NOTHING WORKS AS WRITTEN. I didn’t follow any recipes; I just read them and got ideas from them. As far as your curry plant is concerned, should you find yourself at a loss again this summer, I’d be happy to take some of the leaves off your hands. 😉
Now this, of course, is the reason why I could never live long-term in the US… Life without curry leaves? Unimaginable!! I’m glad that you’ve found a source at last (and even happier that you managed to smuggle your spice collection back into the country). Excellent!
Now the shop just down the road from me sells them. Bliss.
Hi Susan I have cooked biryani before but not with chicken or curry leaves. As I have a very healthy 2 year old curry leaf plant I will try your recipe. Curry leaf tree grows well in Adelaide South Austrailia
Oh how wonderful! Please report back with any comments. My sister tested the recipe and loved it, but there may be a hint of pro-Susan bias there … so I’d love to hear an unbiased assessment. 😉
I made this last night for monday night dinner and it was fantastic ! I have recently moved to a new apartment near Gare du Nord, in the Indian and Sri Lankan neighborhood, I had no problem finding the leaves in a local shop, although the man kept them behind the cash register and not with the other produce, which attests to their preciousness. I now have a rather large bag of them and need to find more recipes and/or a way to store them ! The local takeaway shops use them in very spicy donut shape potato based snacks, and there are some chickpeas ones also…
Feel free to edit:(PS I wrote this twice, since the first time I tried to do it from my phone, so sorry if you receive it multiple times)
Bianca, I’m happy and so very flattered that you cooked my recipe! I’m delighted it came out well, and thanks for reporting back. Curry leaves are so versatile. I’ve been adding them to fish and prawn dishes, and they are lovely with vegetables as well, particularly squash. You can freeze them too … just try to use within 4-5 weeks or so, or I think they will lose their flavor. Say hello to your family from me. XXXX
How did I miss this at the time? Thank you for the mention and so happy you enjoyed making a delicious biryani. It’s lovely to read up about dishes first, I do the same thing. 🙂
I’m so glad that you make this chicken biryani recipe. It looks great and such a delicious flavours.
hi Susan, I am Paul Wong from Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. I am a processor and exporter of curry leaves in frozen form. My process protocol has been inspected by the Dept. of Agriculture of Malaysia and my company has official notification from Food Standards Agency/DEFRA UK to export curry leaves (frozen form) into the UK. My processes are carried under HAS 1/HACCP conditions. Are you able to help me find a way to bring in my frozen curry leaves into the market?
The beauty of my process is that shelf-life is extended with no loss of texture or flavor.
Hope to hear from you. Oh, by the way those are mouth-watering dishes with curry leaves!! 🙂
I’m afraid that import/export is not my forte. Good luck!