Mussels with Wild Garlic, Grape Tomatoes, and Guanciale

DSC_0653aI do not fully understand the synergistic relationship between shellfish and pork products, but I do not question it. Clams are delicious with smoky bacon, and at Spanish restaurant Pizarro, I ate seared scallops, each of which was topped with a translucent sliver of Iberico pork lardo – pure cured fat – which softened and clung lasciviously to the scallop. It was seriously one of the most pervy things I have ever put in my mouth. Guanciale is unsmoked cured pork jowl. The fat in guanciale, of which guanciale is mostly comprised, is more delicate and tender than belly fat. Guanciale is the key ingredient in classic Carbonara sauces (until you have tried Carbonara with guanciale, you have not truly experienced Carbonara) and it is a remarkably fortuitous item to have in your fridge when you’re casting about for a new way to prepare mussels.

I actually made this guanciale myself with my friend Nicola using Gloucestershire Old Spot pork jowls from Nath the butcher, following Ruhlman’s method. (By “made”, I mean to say I helped her weigh out pink salt, salt, and sugar, patted it on the jowls, put it in a plastic bag to cure, and called her anxiously for bi-weekly updates while she did all the work.) The end product was glorious, and was one of my most singularly gratifying culinary experiences of the year. Nothing makes you feel quite so butch as curing your own meat. If, however, you don’t want to wait three to four weeks to make this dish, or you don’t have a cold room in which to hang your porky creations, you can buy guanciale at an Italian deli. In a pinch, you can use pancetta or unsmoked bacon, but I heartily recommend the guanciale. It is DECADENT.

As for the wild garlic, I think this may be one of my favorite uses so far. It is so wonderfully fragrant, and with the sweet grape tomatoes, briny liquid from the mussels, and fatty pig cheek, it is heaven. Serve these mussels with plenty of crusty bread to mop up the delicious juices, or you can even toss them with linguine. DSC_0641a

Ingredients:

1 kg (2.2 pounds) mussels, scrubbed clean and debearded (you debeard mussels by pulling any seaweedy bits firmly away from the shell, ideally under cold running water)

100 grams guanciale, or about four thick slices, cut into ½ cm dice

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

1 medium shallot, thinly sliced

350 grams (about ¾ pound) grape tomatoes, as sweet as you can find, sliced in half lengthwise

25 grams (about an ounce) wild garlic (ramps), cut into chiffonade

About 2 tablespoons Italian parsley, coarsely chopped

80 ml (about 1/3 cup) dry white wine

½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper DSC_0648a

Method:

Sweat the diced guanciale over medium-low heat in a reasonably large heavy bottomed saucepan until it is translucent. Increase the heat to medium and continue to cook until golden. Add the sliced garlic and shallots and sauté until transparent. Do not allow to brown. Stir in the grape tomatoes and black pepper, and cook just until the tomatoes have started to soften and split, no more than five to seven minutes.

Add the wine and increase heat to high. When the liquid has started to boil, add the mussels and put a lid on the pot. Cook for about three minutes, covered, shaking the pot from time to time. Gently stir through the wild garlic and parsley, reserving a few sprigs of parsley for garnish if desired, and replace the lid on the pot. Continue to cook until the mussels have opened completely, about another three to five minutes. You shouldn’t need salt, because both the mussels and the guanciale contain quite a lot, but at this point you can taste your broth and add a bit of salt if desired.DSC_0651aServe immediately. Makes two to four main-course servings, or four to eight servings if served as a starter.

DSC_0658a

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25 thoughts on “Mussels with Wild Garlic, Grape Tomatoes, and Guanciale

  1. Oh, wonderful! First of all, I love your photos. I’ve never seen a striped mussel shell like that. And, we’ve been looking for something to use Steve’s remaining guanciale in. It’s been languishing in the freezer. Guanciale is absolutely delicious, as you say, but one can only do so much carbonara. Our ramps are gone, but the green garlic is here, so I think that will make a fine substitute.

    • I’d never seen a mussel shell like that either — and this batch had a couple, but they only revealed themselves after cooking. They were an exciting surprise when I was styling my photos.

      With my two cured guanciales, I first made lots of carbonara, then amatriciana, then added it to vegetables, then more carbonara, then felt guilty about eating so much guanciale and only took it out when I wanted to impress my friends. I should have thought of mussels sooner!

      Good luck with your porky seafood adventures. x

  2. What a great post, Susan!

    I wish I could find ramps here in So Cal. I saw them at the Union Square green market when I was in NYC and I was tempted to buy them.

    The guanciale looks awesome. I bet it tasted just out of this world. I’m so jealous!

    daisy

  3. Mussels are one of the things I missed so much when I was pregnant – this looks beautiful and I will definitely try it!

    One question – are grape tomatoes the same as cherry tomatoes? Thank you!

    • Thanks Mimi! Grape tomatoes are the ones that are the same size as cherry tomatoes but oblong. You often see yellow ones. Frankly, use any small tomatoes you like, as long as they are very sweet. :)

  4. I love Mussels so cheap and quick to cook! I do hate cleaning them though, we always seem to get ones full of barnacles and I spend ages getting them off which is quite difficult whilst trying not to damage the shells. This recipe looks fab!

    I’m running a competition with Sainsburys over on my blog, you could win £50 for submitting a recipe to: http://foodgeek.co.uk/2013/05/my-signature-quick-rogan-josh-recipe-how-you-can-win-50/

    It ends tonight but I’ve not had many entries so the odds on winning are good!

    • Thank you for this nice comment and for stopping by my blog. I love mussels for the same reason, but I know what you mean about cleaning them! I submitted an entry for your contest.

  5. Pingback: Slow Food Week and Wild Garlic | Brunch at Goodies

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