The great revelation for me when I moved to London was the availability of affordable game. In the United States, unless you hunt or know someone who does, it is very difficult to find anything more exotic than duck without paying through the nose for it. (Even duck is prohibitively expensive.) This is particularly true in New York City, where I grew up. Wild game? Forget about it. So it was with great excitement (seriously) that I realized in London, not only could I find game, I could actually afford it and get really good at cooking it.
Last Sunday I went to the Marylebone Farmer’s Market. I was going to buy a rabbit. Maybe a hare! I was going to make paté using my meat grinder, a lovely vintage hand-cranked item that my mother sharpened and schlepped all the way from the United States for me. But I got to the market kinda late, and my favourite purveyor of wild game had sold out of rabbit, hare, and about half the other things on his chalkboard. I was (momentarily) crestfallen.
But the pheasants! They were two for £6! Dare I? I called my lovely friend Will (husband to the wonderful Jess), a brilliant cook and expert on all things meat. “I’m at the Marylebone Farmer’s Market!” I said. “How ‘bout I buy a brace of pheasants and come over and cook them at your flat?”
“Great!” said lovely Will. Two days later I was in Will and Jess’s kitchen, pheasants, leeks, and a sack of Brussels sprouts in hand.
The dish we created is a rich but delicate autumn stew with a dark, gamey flavour. The pheasant, a lean and rather persnickety bird to cook, essentially braises in its own juices, helped along by the addition of some wine and nice aromatics. The lentils cook in the same liquid and their flavour gets awesomely nutty and complex. I should say that it also helps to have fairly young, tender birds. (I can see how cooking with scraggly older birds could be tricky.) I imagine this dish would be GREAT with rabbit. American readers, maybe try squab? Or . . . or . . . super free-range chicken? (It won’t taste the same, but it will be tasty.)
2 whole pheasants
2 leeks, tough green part trimmed, and white and pale green part cut into small dice
1 stick celery, cut into small dice
¼ lb unsmoked slab bacon
1 cup de Puy or small green lentils, rinsed well under cold running water
750 – 1000 ml white chicken stock
1/2 cup dry white wine
About ¼ cup of olive oil
2 bay leaves
2-3 teaspoons fresh thyme, leaves picked from stems
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
½ teaspoon mustard powder
1 cinnamon stick
1 dried red chili pepper
½ teaspoon cracked black pepper
2-3 teaspoons salt, or to taste
Wash your pheasant well, then quarter it and remove the breast meat from the breastbone, reserving the bones and gizzards. If you are unsure about how to do this, I strongly recommend this video. (It’s for a chicken, but the anatomy is not all that different.)
Glug a little olive oil into a heavy stockpot and brown your bones and gizzards over medium-high heat. You are aiming for a nice dark brown caramelisation, which will add plenty of flavour to your cooking stock. Add the slab bacon and cook for a few minutes, then add the wine. Stir vigorously to deglaze, then chuck in the bay leaves and chicken stock, and simmer until reduced by about half. Pour liquid through a wire mesh strainer and discard the solids.
Heat about 2-3 tablespoons olive oil in a wide deep skillet or casserole dish large enough to fit the pheasant in a single layer, and then brown the pheasant pieces on both sides and remove to a plate to rest.
In the same pan, sauté together the leeks, celery, fennel seeds, mustard powder and thyme leaves over medium heat until the leeks and celery have started to soften. Then add the cinnamon stick, red chili pepper, and lentils and sauté for about another minute or two.
Place the pheasant pieces on top of the lentils and vegetables and add your lovely stock. (It should cover the meat.) Allow it to come to a boil, then reduce to a simmer and cook, partially covered, for about 50 minutes to an hour, or until the lentils are tender. Add additional stock if needed. Alternatively, if, when the lentils are cooked, there is too much liquid, remove the pheasant pieces to a plate and increase heat to reduce the liquid. (If you do this, return the pheasant to the pan for the final resting stage.)
When the lentils are tender and you have the sauce-pheasant-lentil ratio you want, remove pan from heat, cover, and allow to rest for about 10-15 minutes, spooning lentils and jus over the pheasant pieces. Remove and discard cinnamon stick and chili pepper, and serve with steamed Brussels sprouts and roasted potatoes, or with mash, or just eat on its own with plenty of crusty bread to sop up the delicious juices.
Looks amazing. I always see pheasant hanging outside my local butcher…. I really should buy one. I shall enquire as to how much they cost very soon!
Definitely try it! I’ll pass along the advice from Will: buy a hen, particularly if you intend to roast it, and (not surprisingly), the longer it hangs, the gamier it tastes. Looking forward to seeing what you produce!
oh that sounds delicious! i work at the farmers’ market every week but am ashamed to say I haven’t cooked much game. finally did try my hand at venison though, yum! need to start branching out! rabbit you say? hmm there’s a stall (little jack horners) at pimlico, also at marylebone i think, who does pies. one of which was squirrel. hmm ^^
Rabbit is delicious and easy. Squirrel, I hear, tastes a lot like rabbit. My brain hasn’t yet adapted to the idea of squirrel, although I’m sure it’s a sustainable and nutritious meat. I’d *love* to see what you’d do with pheasant (or rabbit), you’re such an inventive cook!
ok i will definitely try one day!! btw i tagged you in a bloggers unplugged tag going around! hope you can do it (:
Cool! Thank you! I’ll look for it. Does that mean they’ll contact me?
Oh lovely. Pheasant is impossible to get in Australia. It would be amazing to see it at a farmers market
But I am so envious of the incredible seafood you get in Australia! And I’ve never cooked a kangaroo or a wallaby. I know someone who used to say the cuter the animal, the better the eating. I’m not quite ready to start on kittens though.
The whole dish was even better the next day once the tricky dry meat has shloookled up all the braising juices and contemplated how lucky it was over night in the fridge. Lip smacking good – bringing some more game up from Kent this weekend… get thinking Miss Wilk.
What I am thinking is that I will be coming to dinner at yours next week! Can’t wait to see what you return with. xxx
I love game, but as you said, it’s often so expensive. I just moved to a big hunting area… I may have to befriend some local sharp shooters. (Or learn myself). 🙂 Good tips on the hen — I’ll try that in the meantime.
Excellent. Let me know how your cooking goes, and thank you for visiting!
Great recipe, I love the addition of cinnamon and chilli to add those warm spicy undertones. Game is one of the things I love about the UK/Europe. I would be happy eating no other meat for half the year.
One thing I have started doing in the last couple of years is using pheasant in curries, particularly Indian ones. The meat goes so well with the spice, better than chicken.
I’m sure pheasant curry would be delightful, especially in one of those dark woodsy Punjabi curries. I’m ready to start branching out! Hare is definitely on the list.
This is just gorgeous! I was equally gobsmacked by the game birds when we got here. Love cooking with them- my favourite is turning them into pastilla… Fiddly- but so much fun.
Ooh pastilla! Wonderful idea! I’ll have to try it. The game birds *almost* make up for the poor showing on seafood.
I do wish that you would share with us the name of the wine, or grape, that would pair well with these dish recipes.
With this pheasant, I imagine a dry or semi dry Riesling, or maybe a nice Muscadet?