Almost exactly a year ago, I ate at El Suadero, the Monday night Mexican pop-up at Sitka and Spruce in Seattle, which is where I had the unforgettable eponymous milk-braised veal brisket that inspired this dish. Sometime after I returned to London, I set about finding boneless rolled veal brisket, which is what I decided that I needed to recreate it. Starting from the premise that I would only buy free-raised veal, I bought two rolled veal briskets from the lovely people at the Wild Beef Company, which sometimes trades at the Borough Market, and excitedly told my father what I planned to make. My father, who is not a religious man but can have a cruel streak, intoned ominously, “Thou shalt not seethe the calf in its mother’s milk.”
I was struck, horribly, with feelings of intense guilt. How could I, a former vegetarian, have strayed so far as to now eat veal? Even free-raised veal? How barbaric of me to cook a calf, a tender innocent baby, in milk! I sadly put the veal brisket (which fortunately was vacuum-packed) in the freezer, where it sat for a few months. Even reminding myself that my father, who was raised kosher, now happily eats beef in cream sauces did not make me feel better. At the same time, I researched this dish. If I were going to seethe the calf, as it were, I wanted to do it justice. I learned that milk-braising is common in some parts of Mexico, and is not limited to veal, or to brisket. Pork shoulder is similarly “seethed,” as is goat. (There is also a classic Northern Italian milk-braised meat preparation.)
This dish is honestly one of the best things I have ever cooked. Friends who ate it at my birthday party said they had not had better food from me, and my flatmate, in one evening of reckless abandon, consumed all of the leftovers. The brisket is rubbed in a thick smoky marinade of chipotle, ancho, and piquin peppers, roasted garlic, coffee, toasted cumin, cinnamon, fennel, and herbs, in which it sits overnight. Then it braises slowly in a mixture of milk and bone marrow stock. At the end of the braising, the meat literally is so tender it falls apart at the touch of a fork. The lactic acid in the milk tenderizes the meat, and the natural fats combine to make a wonderfully rich, intensely flavorful sauce. Although during the braising process, the milk curdles and eventually separates into solids, these are puréed with the sauce, which is then reduced, and poured over the meat. Heaven.
Traditionally, this dish should be served with a red onion salsa and tortillas. (I did make a red onion salsa, and you can too, by combining chopped red onions, tomatoes, chilli pepper, garlic, lime juice, and coriander (cilantro) leaves.) But you can also serve it with rice, or cornbread, or just bread, so long as you have something to sop up the marvellous sauce. Although I made this dish with veal in a faithful effort to recreate the original, you can use beef brisket, short rib, or stewing meat, or pork shoulder, or any other cut of meat you think would benefit from long, slow, cooking. Using a different cut of meat may affect the braising time, but otherwise, this dish is universal. Seriously: one of the best things I have ever cooked.
You will need:
A heavy casserole dish suitable for braising
A food processor or mortar and pestle
For the marinade:
3 dried chipotles
About 1 tablespoon dried piquin peppers
About 60 ml (1/4 cup) boiling water
1 head of garlic
A dribble of olive oil
1 teaspoon espresso powder
1 teaspoon salt
½ teaspoon black pepper
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
½ teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon ancho chile powder
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves (if using dried, use 1 teaspoon)
1.5-2 kilos (3-5 pounds) rolled boneless veal brisket, or any other meat suitable for braising
For the braising:
About 2-3 tablespoons vegetable oil
2-3 bay leaves
2-3 star anise (optional)
An additional teaspoon of salt, plus more to taste
1 liter (slightly more than a quart) of bone marrow or beef stock (You could probably also use chicken stock)
½ liter (slightly more than two cups) of two percent or whole milk
The night before:
Preheat your oven to 190 degrees Celsius or 375 degrees Fahrenheit. Slice the top ½ inch off the garlic bulb, drizzle with a little oil, wrap in aluminium foil, and put in the oven to roast until tender (about 15-20 minutes). While the garlic is roasting, soak the dried chillies in the boiling water, and toast the cumin and fennel seeds in a dry pan, shaking frequently, until lightly browned.
When the garlic is soft and cool enough to handle, squeeze the cloves out of the bulb. They should pop out easily. If you have a mini food processor, purée all of the marinade ingredients, including the soaking water from the chillies, in that, or use a mortar and pestle to pound into a thick paste.
Wash and dry your meat, then rub the marinade over it well, put in a ziplock plastic bag or container, and put in your fridge to marinate overnight. (Don’t be worried about the spiciness of the paste; it will mellow out as it is cooked.)
The next day:
Preheat your oven to 150 degrees Celsius (300 degrees Fahrenheit).
Heat the vegetable oil in your casserole pot and lightly brown the meat on all sides. Pour in a little stock, scrape up any of the spice paste that has adhered to the pan, and then return the meat to the pot, and add the remaining stock, milk, bay leaves, two tablespoons of honey, and star anise, if using, and any leftover spice paste. Cover, put in the oven, and braise, turning the meat once about two hours into the cooking. At this point you can also add additional honey and another teaspoon or two of salt, according to taste, but be conservative, as the sauce will later be reduced.
After about four hours of cooking, or when the meat is completely tender (you want to braise this until the meat is more than fork-tender, but completely yielding, like a very soft overripe peach) remove from the oven and take the brisket out of the sauce. You may be dismayed, as the sauce will have separated into a mess of fat and milk solids. Don’t be. This is part of the master plan. Remove the bay leaves and star anise, if using, and purée the sauce until completely smooth using a immersion blender or food processor. Return the sauce to the pot and heat on your stovetop until the sauce is reduced by half and is the consistency of a gravy. (Like gravy, it will thicken as it cools.) Taste and add additional salt to taste, if needed.
Pull apart the meat with a fork, cover with the sauce, and serve. Depending on the weight of your meat, makes 6-10 servings.
I want this now! Like your flatmate, I know I would eat it with “reckless abandon.”
I was somewhat stunned to come home and find it all gone! (That same night she finished the birthday cake too — fully 1/4 of a cake. Impressive.) I loved this dish though, and evidently she did too. 🙂
That is a mighty combination of some wonderful flavours – all those smoky, nutty, intense spices AND coffee, honey… Oh wow. This is something I am going to try as soon as I have a weekend in which to settle in and enjoy the long slow build up. One for these winter days for sure.
I think you would really love this dish Aaron. It’s got some serious depth. Let me know if you make it.
Oh yes please! Talk about comfort food!
Susan, you are a great writer and an amazing cook. Your write-up and description of this brisket makes for an excellent read. Your creativity in the kitchen is impressive. I’m so glad to be a regular reader of your blog so I can be exposed to your tremendous talents.
Thank you so much Daisy! The feeling is entirely mutual. 🙂
I was so glad this dish worked out so well. I would have felt *horribly guilty* if it hadn’t.
Right then, I’m diving right into this one at the weekend. Now to hunt for piquin peppers. If I can’t find any I’ll revert to birdseye chillies which I think is roughly equivalent on the Scoville scale. Hopefully the chipotles will make up the smoky flavour. I have an excellent online source for spices at The Spicery in Bath, who do a whole range of quantities, including very small.
Oh how cool that you’re planning to cook this! I think that birdseyes are a good substitute for the piquins. The only really irreplaceable flavour is the chipotles, and it sounds like you can find those. The ancho chile powder is lovely as well (kind of dark and roasty), but I accept that it’s hard to find here. If you can’t find it, maybe increase the espresso powder by 1/2 teaspoon. A good source for Mexican chillies and spices is souschef.co.uk (full disclosure: my lovely friend Nic’s company). I don’t doubt that you can find some great things locally in Bath there (what a nice place to live!). Do let me know how this turns out.
I made this at the weekend, and I’ve been struggling since to find to the words to say how wonderfully satisfying it is, and how very happy it made me. We used beef brisket. Yes, my boyfriend and I did manage to consume it between us over the course of the weekend, and we now urgently want to cook it again, for a troop of friends. I used birdseye instead of piquin peppers in the end, and an enormous head of smoked garlic (which I must roast again just for the pleasure of spreading it on toast). How I wish we had leftovers.
Smoked garlic sounds just fantastic. I am SO pleased you and your boyfriend liked the dish! Such a wonderful comment. 😀
I used to add all whole milk instead addi stock,
i know that brown redujed stock is superior,
btw, i’ve never using a brisket, worthed to try…
Delicious looking! A while ago, I did pork ribs in braised in milk and honey. Pretty traif-y. But yours is so much more un-kosher!
Way to cook that delicious calf in his mother’s milk, Susan! Mmmmmmm. Taboo . . . 🙂
I know! SIN TASTES GOOD. Pork ribs in milk and honey sounds BOSS. I must try pork next.
Good one sus! I don’t know wh but I’m slightly amused at your dad’s ‘ominous intonation’ as you put it. I don’t know where I read it, but apparently veal is not as cruel as commonly misunderstood. Think it was some old Guardian article. Not sure if that makes you feel better… I also had no idea you were vegetarian before! Your meat dishes look so freaking amazing. This one I could dig into just by seeing the photos, even the photo of the earlier stage where it’s just being marinated and rolled (gorgeous photo). x
I was also amused at my father’s ominous intonation. 🙂 Very biblical. I love to cook and eat meat now. Truthfully, I’ve always loved meat; I was an ethical vegetarian.
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We recently bought a quarter cow and was looking for something new and different to make with all the various cuts of meat we now have in the freezer! I am SO making this soon! I even have some ancho chile powder! I’m so pleased I found your blog. 🙂
Thank you so much for the sweet comment! If you make it, let me know how it turns out.