I have been fighting off the cranky. This usually means maniacally cooking something, or several somethings, until I am no longer cranky or I am asleep. Hence this meal, conceived at five, served at eight. Continue reading
Pardon the soapbox.
White chicken stock is, in my opinion, the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT BASIC INGREDIENT IN YOUR KITCHEN. I know white chicken stock isn’t hip. It smacks of Jewish grandmothers (in my case, Jewish mothers), 1950s casseroles, and white sauces. And people love to coo and preen about their brown chicken stock. But I think there is nothing you can get from a brown chicken stock that a veal stock can’t do better, whereas your white chicken stock unobtrusively and self-effacingly Continue reading
Lately, I have been fixated on the idea of tunnel-boning quail. For the uninitiated, this means carefully removing the bones from the bird, while leaving the meat and skin intact, so that you can then stuff it and make it look like it has all its bones. Clear? It’s actually a rather nice thing to do, Continue reading
Susan eats London 
